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February 21, 2022
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Novel retinoid, alpha hydroxy acid formulation yields improvement in blemish-prone skin

A novel combination of a topical retinoid and an alpha hydroxy acid was associated with improvement in a number of skin appearance parameters at 12 weeks of follow-up, according to a study.

“Topical retinoids influence the rate of cellular turnover and improve skin clarity and photoaged skin,” Deanne M. Robinson, MD, FAAD, of Modern Dermatology in Westport, Connecticut, and colleagues wrote. “Consequent cutaneous irritation reduces adherence resulting in suboptimal outcomes.”

The researchers noted that individuals with skin that is prone to blemishes may benefit from a novel formulation that includes a double-conjugated molecule containing both a retinoid and an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA).

The 12-week clinical trial included 20 individuals with mild or moderate blemish-prone skin. Nineteen participants completed the trial.

Improvement was assessed using the Investigator Global Assessment scale, with changes in appearance of pores assessed on a severity scale of 0 (none) to 4 (severe). Safety data were included, along with patient satisfaction and an evaluation of visible, quantitative changes in pores.

Results at 4 weeks showed a mean improvement of 43% in skin clarity from baseline with the study formulation (P < .0001). That proportion increased to 48% (P < .0001) by 8 weeks and to 50% (P < .0001) by 12 weeks.

Regarding visible improvement in pores from baseline, the novel formulation yielded a 33% (P < .0001) improvement at week 4, a 21% (P = .04) improvement at week 8 and a 25% (P = .0006) improvement at week 12.

At the 8-week mark, all participants reported overall improvement in skin appearance, along with reports of “healthier looking” skin.

The researchers conducted a secondary analysis in six patients. Results of this analysis showed that at 12 weeks, 18% of patients experienced a mean improvement in the appearance of pores compared with baseline.

Safety data showed that adverse events were mild and transient, according to the researchers.

“A double-conjugated retinoid/AHA cream specifically developed for individuals with blemish-prone skin demonstrated early improvements in the appearance of skin clarity and pores over 12 weeks,” the researchers wrote. “Subjects reported high levels of satisfaction in the overall appearance and quality of skin.”