Prepping skin for aesthetic procedures key in skin of color

MIAMI BEACH, Fla. — Priming the skin for certain aesthetic techniques is key in skin of color, according to a speaker at South Beach Symposium.

Skin of color is a topic with many clinical nuances, Seemal R. Desai, MD, FAAD, clinical assistant professor in the department of dermatology at University of Texas Southwestern Medical Center in Dallas, said during his presentation.

In addressing what many dermatologists who perform common aesthetic techniques in skin of color experience, Desai discussed the trend of skin lightening and skin beauty related to fairness in skin tone.

“This trend is affecting many cultures around the world, particularly in southeast Asia and India. As dermatologists and clinicians, we need to take the time to encourage our patients to understand that skin beauty is not necessarily related to the lightening of skin tone,” Desai said. “This is something that we need to be aware of when treating our patients from an aesthetic perspective because these patients may come into our office requesting to treat fine lines and wrinkles, but their ultimate goal is to lighten their skin. We need to take these nuances into account when treating skin of color. It is our job as dermatologists to set the message straight about skin lightening and be aware of the messages that are out there, because there are a lot of mixed messages.”

The number of people undergoing aesthetic procedures, such as chemical peels, photorejuvenation and fractional skin resurfacing, has increased steadily in recent years. The two available options for skin resurfacing include ablative — encompasses nearly 30% of laser skin resurfacing treatments — and non-ablative — includes about 70% of the laser skin resurfacing treatments.

When treating skin of color with any of these aesthetic therapies, Desai said it is key to prime the skin for at least 1 month prior to introducing therapy.

“A sunscreen with SPF 30 should be used along with cosmeceuticals, and inorganic sunscreens should be considered,” he said. “All retinoids, including over-the-counter therapies, should be stopped within 5 days to 7 days prior to any aesthetic treatment.”

Requesting detailed information about where patients are undergoing aesthetic procedures outside of the dermatologist’s office is also important, according to Desai.

“We do not know what is happening in settings that are not our own, but we need to know before treating patients. Also, ask about any history of herpes simplex virus,” he said. – by Jennifer Southall

Desai S. Skin of Color: Aesthetic Implications. Presented at: South Beach Symposium; Feb. 6-9, 2020; Miami.

Disclosures: Desai reports serving as a consultant for AbbVie, Allergan, Dermavant, Galderma, Pfizer, Ralexar, Skinceuticals and Sol-Gel.