Vitamin C serum, tinted sunscreen moisturizer may ‘protect and repair’ aging skin

A two-step skincare regimen involving concentrated vitamin C serum and tinted sunscreen was safe and effective in combating skin facial aging, according to a study.

“The clinical investigators — Dr. Joel Cohen, Dr. Melanie Palm, and Dr. Brian Biesman — were interested in understanding if a two-step skincare regimen comprised of a highly concentrated vitamin C serum and a tinted sunscreen moisturizer with broad-spectrum protection (SPF 45) could improve facial skin aging attributed to extrinsic stressors, including air pollution, ultraviolet radiation, visible light and infrared radiation, within their patient population,” Alisar S. Zahr, PhD, director of research and clinical development at Revision Skincare, told Healio.

Zahr added that patients exposed to these stressors have expressed concern about hyperpigmentation and photodamage in the form of fine lines, wrinkles, skin laxity and skin dullness.

“There are many treatment methodologies but the simplest and perhaps the easiest to incorporate into patients’ daily lives is medical-grade, physician-recommended skin care,” Zahr said.

The multi-center, prospective, open-label study included 36 women (mean age, 48.8 years; age range, 35 to 60 years). Eligible participants had Fitzpatrick skin types I to V, with moderate to severe hyperpigmentation and moderate photodamage.

“The location of the study was strategically chosen to encompass not only urban pollution but factors including high UV index, and climate ecosystems found within beach cities, mountain cities and river-traversed basin cities,” Zahr said, noting that the study was conducted in San Diego, Denver and Nashville.

Patients were instructed to apply the vitamin C serum in the morning and evening. The tinted sunscreen moisturizer was applied once in the morning and then at least twice more during the day. This regimen lasted 12 weeks.

Assessments included clinical grading with a validated scale, standardized photography and a patient questionnaire. Researchers gathered this data at baseline and at weeks 4, 8 and 12.

Results showed statistically significant improvements in clinically graded efficacy parameters at each time point.

For example, overall photodamage improved by 11.7% at 4 weeks, 14.9% at 8 weeks and 19.1% at 12 weeks, according to the findings.

In addition, clarity/brightness improved by 19.5% at 4 weeks, 23.4% at 8 weeks and 24.5% at 12 weeks.

Lines on both the forehead and cheek improved significantly between baseline and the 12-week assessment.

“The results from the study were exciting more than surprising,” Zahr said.

She noted that the group also conducted a stand-alone study on the vitamin C serum with 30% weight tetrahexyldecyl (THD) ascorbate which demonstrated efficacy and tolerability in female subjects with photodamage and hyperpigmentation.

“In this clinical study, we were excited to see that combining two highly efficacious products together was well perceived by the subjects across the urban environments,” Zahr said. “Subject testimonials and high acceptance of the two-step skincare regimen further substantiated that this product pairing can be used by physicians to treat patients concerned with facial aging and those living in urban environments.”

Safety data showed that patients tolerated both products well, according to the findings.

“Solar radiation and air pollution are major contributors to facial skin hyperpigmentation and photodamage,” Zahr said. “Incorporating a daily skincare regimen including a highly efficacious vitamin C serum composed of THD ascorbate and a tinted sunscreen moisturizer with broad spectrum protection containing additional unique ingredients to protect from high energy visible light and infrared light can both protect and repair skin from these extrinsic factors.”