January 30, 2015
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AEC/soap cleanser may induce less irritation, dryness

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Researchers found that a skin cleanser containing sodium laureth carboxylate and alkyl carboxylates was mild on the skin, cleansed sebum well and resulted in less dryness.

In the controlled, single-blind parallel trial, researchers assigned 30 women with mild dry skin either sodium laureth carboxylate and alkyl carboxylate cleanser (AEC/soap) or asked them to continue their usual facial cleanser. Both groups used their assigned cleanser twice a week for 4 weeks during the winter season. Almost all of the patients used lotion twice a day, once during the day and once at night.

The researchers tested the AEC/soap’s ability to wash away an artificial sebum mixture vs. five other popular Japanese cleanser brands. They discovered that the five other soaps cleansed 57% of the sebum while AEC/soap washed away 72% of sebum. Patients using the AEC/soap had less sebum on their facial skin, but it did not completely wash away.

After 4-week use of the AEC/soap, seven subjects reported improvements to their skin, while one said her skin was worse. Conversely, after 4 weeks, one woman who used her usual cleanser said her skin had improved and one woman complained her skin was worse.

“Despite high sebum-cleansing ability, AEC/soap penetrates less into [the] strateum cornum,” the researchers wrote. “Less penetration of AEC/soap cleanser may induce less irritation and less dryness.” – Abigail Sutton

Disclosure: The researchers report funding for the study from Kao Corporation.